Seaside Town of Ortigia
A farmers market by the sea and famous panini master. The Sicilian seaside town of Ortigia is a place that I would happily go back and visit time and time again. Rent an apartment and live there for a while perhaps? Si, per favore! (Yes, please!)
Ortigia is part of the City of Siracusa and flanked by a 100-meter bridge. It is affectionately known as the offshore old town spanning a perimeter of a few kilometres with limited car access and fondly known as a pedestrian only town. It should only take you one hour to walk around the island - the heart of old Siracusa.
Founded by the Greek settlers in the 8th Century BC, inhabitants have lived here for over 3,000 years. Ortigia has been destroyed and built seven times which is a true testament of a strong mix of Mediterranean culture over centuries. It is renowned for its Greek heritage with an indelible imprint of Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans. The breathtaking Piazza Duomo in the historical centre is a fine showpiece of this history.
Strolling around the labyrinth of laneways and narrow streets you will appreciate the beautifully restored medieval and baroque style buildings as you step in to the curated boutique shops and restaurants.
As you head over to the Porto Piccolo (the small boat harbour) the fisherman will be busy with net mending as little boats go about their business. Nearby, you will stumble across the daily Mercato di Ortigia. A lively farmers market by the sea.
The loud and veracious Sicilian fishmongers are meticulously slicing fresh swordfish literally just pulled out of the sea ready for a quick sale. The bold Sicilian women are priding over their tricotta (twice baked ricotta) and carefully dried baccala (cod fish). The heady scent of capers, lemons, spices, tarocco blood oranges, pomodoro di conserva (tomato paste), struto (lard) and home made caponitana (capanota) are ready for the taking. And take you must! Take all of it. It’s truly delicious.
And the most famous panini maker in the world is here too! Andrea from Caseificio Borderi- a delicatessan owned by Andrea and Gaetano Borderi, the son and grandson of Don Pasquale Borderi who first founded this thriving family business.
Whilst I was standing in line to order my panini I watched this creative genius construct the most incredible panini comprising of tantalising locally sourced and home-made fillings layered with heart, soul and a sprinkle of theatre. You can only tell them what you ‘don’t like’ and then leave it up to the master to surprise you. It’s best to get there at 9:30am to place your order because these Sicilians only ‘loosely observe’ the ticketing system (only in Sicily!). Rules must be broken!
The Spiaggia di Cala Rossa beach is located on the southern end of the island. It is small but truly enough to just relax, slow down and soak up those Mediterranean rays of sunshine and bathe in the salty water as you devour your pistachio granita.
Sicilian’s come in all shapes and sizes (we all do really) and no one is afraid to wear a bikini and just enjoy living in their healthy and robust bodies! So refreshing to see people not caring so much about what people think as they focus on living la dolce vita (the good life) and enjoying just being in the moment with those they care about the most.
I will definitely be going back sometime soon and would encourage you to pay a visit to Ortigia one day too!
A presto!
Where to stay
Where to eat
Pasticceria Artale for your morning espresso and granita
Caseificio Borderi for your famous panini
Il Mercato di Ortigia
Top historical sights
Siracusa Cathedral
Neapolis Archaeological Park
Temple of Apollo
What to buy
Ortigia a small Sicilian soap and scent company