In Ellen's Garden
When I popped over to my sister-in-law Ellen’s place a little while ago, I, was excited to see a small tree in her front yard bearing four large quinces.
I love quinces. They have such an interesting flavour and texture, and can be transformed in to the most delectable ruby-coloured pastes, jams, sweets and desserts. This is how the quince truly comes alive.
As this was Ellen’s first crop, she was patiently watching and deciding when the fruit would be ready to pick. Quinces should be picked after the fruit turns a bright golden-yellow with a sweet fragrance. It should snap off the tree with ease when fully ripe.
My niece Bronte wanted to share the quinces with me when they were ripe, but there were only four, and I thought Ellen should enjoy and experiment with her own first real crop. “I think your mum should have them first,” I told her.
In the end, Ellen cooked them slowly in the oven and brought them over to my house on the day of my birthday. Four beautiful, ruby morsels, presented in a gorgeous round bowl. We both critiqued the first recipe that she tried and agreed they needed a bit more sugar.
There was so much good conversation and company to be had from Ellen’s first harvest of quinces!
Ellen is a warm soul, walking gently on this earth. We sometimes sit on a comfortable chair, slowly sipping a cup of herbal tea, hands clutching a warm hand-made ceramic mug to share day-to-day experiences and discoveries of current back-yard harvests, recipes we are testing, books we are devouring and how our work and personal projects are aligning to our passions (or not!) and the unfolding of them.
We gently stroll around our local Farmers market to buy the organic olives, sweet berries and crisp greens, filling our baskets whilst talking to the producers who woke early to share their bounty rain, hail or shine. Together we explore nature parks, and gardens, and step into favourite shops filled with handmade goodies or beautifully cooked meals. Ellen is a mother, an aunty, and the kind of friend that you want to have around you all the time. For me, she is truly an inspiration.
Ellen’s garden, like Ellen herself, is abundant and welcoming. The garden is filled with edible produce, and potatoes waiting to dig out. Our families have enjoyed many a long night cooking pizza in the wood-fired oven in her garden, laughing, eating, and swapping stories. We roast marshmallows beside the fire pit and play board games. So much banter, laughter and competitive spirit - especially when the board games come out! My children are part of these fond memories, memories that I hope will last them a lifetime.
The quinces in Ellen’s garden that day felt like time-travel to my own childhood, equally filled with food, family and laughter. Memories of fresh Sicilian quince jam (“cotognata”), licked from my Nonna’s teaspoon, and quince jellies (“mostarda”), which were among the most anticipated treats given to children (and yes, to grown ups too).
My first discovery of Nonna’s quince jellies was like standing in front of a candy store. The sweets were carefully tucked away in her spare bedroom, covered in an old light-blue tea-towel to help them to dry slowly, and intensify in flavour. So many pretty shapes, made from tiny moulds the size of small lollies. I couldn’t resist! That first sweet, secret bite. The crunch of the sugar coating. I was afraid that I would get caught, but nobody found me. Delicious.
Many years later, on a journey to Sicily, I visited the local market in Vizzini, where my mum was born. I stumbled across some beautiful, hand-made ceramic moulds, which I thought at the time were little bowls for snacks. But my Zia Rosa explained they were the moulds used to make the larger mostarda, ready to be sliced and eaten on its own, or with hard salty cheese like pecorino or ricotta salata, served with fresh bread. It all made sense!
In contrast, quince jam “cotognata” are preserved in beautiful jars and eaten with fresh bread, or used to make a wonderful ‘crostata di frutta’ which can be eaten for breakfast or afternoon tea with a strong cup of espresso coffee.
Two treasured quince recipes
These are two of my most treasured recipes for cotognata (Sicilian quince jam) and crostata di frutta (fruit tart) for you to experiment with.
And, if you live in Melbourne, here are some beautiful things that Ellen has introduced me to over the years that I thought you might like to have a look at.
Sophie Digard A Parisian knitwear designer and colourist. Unique hand crocheted, knitted and embroidered works of art.
Geppetto’s Workshop. Artisanal collection of puppets, wooden toys, spinning tops, puzzles and games for that special child in your life.
Est Australia Organic body products, homewares, slow fashion labels and natural timber and plant fibre brushware for the kitchen and bathroom.
Grafa Hand made copper garden tools to last a lifetime. Inspired by the work of the Austrian naturalist movement which showed that using copper tools could benefit soils in agriculture.
Shakahari Vegetarian Restaurant in Carlton. Exceptionally crafted vegetarian food since 1972. Its longevity is based on the deep appreciation for food that is nutritionally sustaining, balanced and health promoting.
Diggers Club Australia’s largest gardening club. Boasting rescued heirloom seeds and preserved historic gardens.